Infrared Heaters Buyer's Guide

There's nothing quite like the pleasant, all-over warmth you get at the beach or from an infrared heater. Yet, somehow, most of our attempts to keep warm center around trapping ourselves inside boxes of hot air. What if you could break out and have that beach-warm sensation wherever and whenever you want it? And what if it also literally helped you breathe easier and use less energy?

Well, that's exactly what Infrared Heaters can help you do. The reason they can is that they don't bother trying to heat air.

What are infrared (IR) heaters?

Infrared heaters are a game changer for heating otherwise inaccessible places, thanks to the fact they don't heat the air, instead heating objects. This means that you can harness their power either indoors or outdoors, especially thanks to their rising popularity.

What Is The Appeal?

Due to their versatility, infrared heaters have a wide appeal. This includes being great for hard-to-heat spaces like rooms with high ceilings, garages, and other semi-insulated spaces.

People with allergies or other breathing problems find it easier to catch their breath in areas using infrared heaters, making it the heating method of choice for hospitals. This is thanks to their unique heating delivery system that means fewer allergens or irritants lingering in the air. 

Designs and building engineers love infrared heating for their own reasons. These heaters offer creativity in utilizing floor or wall space while still being a sustainable HVAC system powered by renewable energy sources. A whole room doesn't need to warm up before you start to feel comfortable, and the heat isn't "lost" when you open the door or there's a draft.

In the long run, avid and shrewd infrared users end up with more money in their pockets, too. Air acts like a middleman collecting a non-stop energy fee to get heat where you want it. Infrared helps reduce its take. Combining that with zone management has been confirmed by study after study to lower energy consumption and thus costs. They also have some of the lowest overall lifetime costs of ownership of any type of heating appliance.

Infrared heaters may help you get more enjoyment out of the space you're in. Indoors, they can free users from the confines of conventional forced-air heating, while outdoors, they can add up to 100 more usable nights per year to space.

Before You Buy

When you install any major appliance, there are several considerations to analyze for you and your space.

Utility Considerations

Infrared heaters can be either gas-fueled or use electricity for power. For an electric unit, you should verify the amperage and voltage needed for the unit. That means consulting your electricity provider and a knowledgeable electrician. Gas-powered units need adequate gas pressure and a consumption estimate to run the unit, so you will need to speak with a gas plumber and your gas provider.

AHJ Considerations

Typically, plug-in appliances don't need a special permit from a local code office. But gas appliances may be different. Appliances hardwired for electricity as permanent fixtures may need one, too. Commercial installations often call for special permits. So, check with your local building authority or other authority having jurisdiction (AHJ). Also, check with your AHJ if you're planning to install heaters as part of a renovation or addition.

Local authorities start with national standards, or "codes," as a foundation. They have the right, though, to make changes or adjustments as needed in their areas. Your AHJ always has the final word. What it says goes. And, what's required can vary quite a bit from place to place. So, there's no getting around checking with your local code office.

Personnel Considerations

Not every appliance is designed to be installed by the avid DIYer. Even when you're planning to perform an installation yourself, it's a great idea to know where to get help should you need it.

For design help, many manufacturers and retailers offer their services. They can answer questions about what size heaters you need and where to place them. They may also be able to give you some general technical guidance during installation. But keep in mind that an over-the-phone consultant can't replace an in-person installer.

Depending on the scope of your project, you may need the services of other types of service professionals. For extensive jobs involving new construction or remodeling, you'll definitely have a general contractor. You'll also want someone knowledgeable about your local jurisdiction's residential or commercial codes. In a similar vein, you'll want any electrician you hire to be familiar with NFPA 70 and any gas plumber or fitter to be familiar with NFPA ANSI Z223.1.

One last thing to be aware of is that an installation may require more than simply mounting and making utility connections. It can be a huge help to have someone experienced with your appliance type on-site to make adjustments, test, or fine-tune.

When looking for professionals to fit your bill, you can start with neighborhood recommendation sites like Angie's List. You may also want to have a look at Thumbtack, Houzz, and HomeAdvisor. Professional certification agencies can also be a great place to look for competent help.

You may also have luck finding infrared-capable technicians at the National Fireplace Institute (NFI). For gas-fired heaters, look specifically for NFI Gas Specialists or Master Hearth Professionals in your area. NFI-trained technicians are especially sensitive to the need to treat each appliance as unique. They will also go beyond just the utility connection to complete the installation.

Some electrical appliances indicate they should only be installed by licensed professionals. Check your state's licensing requirements for electricians. Licensed electricians will know the local code requirements for your area, and they'll be able to tell you if your job will need a permit. Licensed electricians also carry the required insurance.

Leading Manufacturers

As we mentioned above, there's no shortage of manufacturer interest in infrared heating technology. Knowing some of the well-known brands and industry leaders can be a big help in navigating the sea of options. Our list below is not nearly exhaustive, but it is a great tool to get you familiar with where to start looking for a solution that works for you.

• Infratech - Based in California and established in 2000, Infratech specializes in up-market outdoor personal comfort wall- and ceiling-mounted heaters for residential and commercial spaces. Their products enable modern designers to allow their imaginations to take flight. Infratech's quartz tube, medium-wave, lamp-style heaters can be seen in award-winning architect-designed homes, restaurants like Lemonade at Fashion Island, Del Frisco's Grille, Wynn Casino & Hotel, the Minnesota Twins stadium, and BC Place arena.
• Bromic - Bromic is also based in California and is a direct competitor to Infratech leans a bit more commercially. They even have a line of heaters designed specifically for luxury cruise ships and super-yachts. They offer both gas-powered ceramic plaque and electric quartz tube lamp-style heaters. You may have seen them in the MGM Grand Las Vegas, W and Sheraton Hotels and Resorts, and restaurants in international destinations like Sydney, Madrid, London, Los Angeles, Newport Beach, and New York.
• King - If it's electric and has to do with heating, King is probably into it, especially regarding heating controls. This WA-based manufacturer has been producing a vast array of forced air convective, hydronic convective, and radiant appliances since 1958. Their infrared heater offerings include electric overhead quartz tube lamps for commercial use and metal sheath ceiling cove heaters for residential living areas.
• Ducoterra - Energy-conscious, sustainable, residential, and commercial comfort heating has been Ducoterra's focus since 2011. This WA-based company is unique in that it publishes quantitative studies and energy savings analyses about its infrared technology, similar to those usually only performed by and for firms in the industrial sector. Their far infrared radiant panels are favorites not only in private residences but also in children's therapy facilities and residential facilities.

Leading Manufacturers

Infrared heat gets harnessed in such a myriad of ways that it's easy to get disoriented when you start searching for the right heater. We think it's worth a moment to briefly outline all the kinds of infrared heaters you might see just to help keep you on track.

An infrared heater will fall into one of three categories based on its use: personal comfort, production process, and therapeutic.

Heaters for personal comfort can be used in central heating, zone heating, or spot heating strategies. Homes and businesses might place them indoors or out. But they're more widespread indoors in industrial applications, like when they're used in airplane hangars and fire stations.

You might also see infrared heaters for commercial, agricultural, or industrial processes. They're used to produce and heat food. Some are made to keep animals warm in pens or stables. Among the more industrial versions are those used for curing, heat treating, moisture removal, non-contact drying, paint baking, and plastic forming.

They have a role in healing and relief, too. Some models feature heat therapy, like those in saunas or IR (infrared) cabins. Others are designed for light therapy. There are even special sorts to help with pain relief and speed up injury recovery.

Infrared Heater Parts

Every infrared heater is composed of an emitter, a heat source, and a reflector working together to produce a desirable view factor of a preferred absorption range.

Emitters

As its name suggests, the emitter is the part of the heater that emits the infrared. Two major factors influence the choice of an emitter's material. One is the material's emissivity of the desired infrared band at the appliance's operating temperature. A heater is most effective when its emission spectrum closely matches the absorption spectrum of its target. The other is the overall radiant power output. A hotter emitter gives off more overall radiant power, which is important because power decreases with distance.

An emitter must be heated by a heating element, which may be either a separate part or somewhat integrated. The most common emitter styles are metal tubes, quartz tubes, quartz bulbs, plaques, flat panels, and metal sheaths.

Silica quartz glass shaped into a narrow tube-like fluorescent office light is also an effective emitter. The glass itself is clear but may feature coatings for improved performance. Some quartz tubes have a reflective coating on one side to improve view factors, while others have a coating to reduce glare. They may even be filled with a noble gas, still furthering performance gains. For instance, filling a tube with halogen extends the life of a tungsten filament. The same quartz glass can also be fashioned into a more traditional bulb shape. Quartz bulbs are typically filled with a noble gas as well.

A flat plate with small perforations to allow tiny gas flames to spread evenly over its surface is called a plaque. Plaques are generally either made of metal or ceramic. When plaques are thin enough to be malleable, they may be called "mesh." These allow emitters to be provided in custom shapes.

Ceramic, sheet steel, and glass are popular materials for a solid flat panel emitter. Panel emitters have the advantage of a wide uniform view factor. They also aren't heated hot enough to glow. This combination makes them popular choices for living spaces.

Heat Sources

The part of a heater that heats the emitter to the desired infrared energy is the heat source.

An electrical resistance filament is used to heat quartz tubes, quartz bulbs, metal sheaths, and flat panels. Some heating element materials you may run into are tungsten, nichrome, FeCrAl alloy (also known as Kanthal), and carbon fiber. Factors that decide the use of one material over another include how quickly a filament heats up or cools down, the preferred band of infrared, the temperature, and the desired radiant power output.

Filaments may also be snaked throughout and integrated into flat panels. While the filaments used in flat panels aren't heated hot enough to glow, those used in quart tubes and bulbs are. The brightness and color of the glow is a function of temperature. And while some models try to suppress unwanted glare, others may take advantage of the glow to use supplemental lighting.

A gas flame may also supply an emitter's heat. There are both natural gas and propane models of heaters. A flame is used to heat metal tubes, but not metal sheaths. Some larger systems use fans to distribute a vortex-shaped flame down the tube. When the flame is pushed down the tube, the system is called a positive pressure system. Those with the flame pulled down the tube are called negative pressure systems. A gas flame may also be spread over the face of a metal or ceramic plaque. In either case, the flame is provided by a gas valve and burner similar to those on other fireplaces and heating appliances.

Reflectors

Not all the infrared leaving an emitter starts off traveling in the desired direction. However, errant infrared can be redirected into a preferred view factor by using one or more reflectors. They're made from materials that have high infrared reflectivity. So, any infrared they absorb is small or even negligible.

Aluminum with a highly polished surface is frequently used. But there can be other metals used. Some high-end productions even use gold or thin gold coatings to make or enhance reflectors. The best reflectors are carefully shaped to obtain the best view factors for a setting. They may also be used on the non-business side of a flat panel emitter to maximize the infrared emitted into the room rather than the surface it's suspended from.

Reflectors

Now, we should discuss the way to understand heater performance. The bad news is there is no standardized way to compare heaters yet.

The U.S. infrared industry has been trying to come up with a standard for the last 30 years. But it's proven difficult. Describing the way radiation works requires a lot of complex physics and calculus, which we've avoided here. As we'll see later, even though there is currently one standardized metric for infrared heaters, it can't be considered "universal."

The lack of a universal standard for comparison has not stopped manufacturers of infrared comfort heating appliances from promoting a plethora of numbers suggesting the superiority of their models. So, in this section, we'll look at the metrics we do have and what we can do to understand infrared heater performance based on the available information.

The numbers we have about infrared heater performance mostly come from two sources: independent manufacturer case studies and individual manufacturer laboratory research. Many independent studies claim to demonstrate the energy efficiency superiority of infrared heaters over their convection counterparts. Most of the cost-saving numbers you're likely to see were generated as part of individual manufacturers' customer case studies. A study like this tracks what a customer paid for energy before and after installing that manufacturer's radiant system.

The other place numbers come from is the laboratory tests manufacturers perform when trying to design heater systems. Most of these tests are done to design a heater with optimal performance parameters for a specific manufacturing process. These yield numbers are most useful to engineers evaluating products from a single manufacturer's catalog. But they can help us in a roundabout way in our comparisons of products from different manufacturers.

BTUs and Watts

We've spent a lot of time talking about radiant "energy." But how do we measure it? We know we'll need it if we want to compare how much "energy" we pay to put into a heater and how much "energy" we get out of it. It turns out there are two ways to do this.

If you lift a box from the floor to your waist, you expend some energy. You might even say you did some work. In fact, that's one of the ways we can talk about energy: "work." Work tells us how much energy we use to move a certain amount of mass a certain distance. When we're thinking about heating, we consider the amount of "work" it takes to move a certain volume of a substance (like water or air) a certain number of degrees up the scale. One BTU will move one cubic foot of water at sea level from 60 degrees to 61 degrees F.

Back to our box example, we'd say someone who could lift that box faster or more time per hour is more "powerful" than someone who could keep pace. That's the other way to measure "energy": power. Power lets us compare how long it takes to do "work." A watt is enough "energy" to move 1 gram 1 meter in 1 second.

You'll typically see watts used to measure inputs and outputs for electrical appliances and BTUs used for gas-fired ones. It's important to remember to keep in mind what you're comparing if you’re looking at appliances using different "energy" scales. The BTU rating you may have seen on appliances is actually a measure of BTUs per hour. That's handy because it allows us to make comparisons to watts. One watt is the same as 3.413 BTU/hr. Those both measure power. But, if you come across a kilowatt hour (kWh), that's a measure of work and should be compared to a flat BTU.

Combustion and Thermal Efficiency

Combustion efficiency tells us how completely a fuel is burned or how much of the potential energy in a fuel is converted into heat. Gas-powered heaters may have a combustion efficiency of anywhere from 60% to nearly 100%. Vent-free appliances tend to be around 100%. As we will see, this is just one of several numbers a manufacturer may advertise as an appliance's "efficiency."

This only tells us what is happening directly at the heat source. We inevitably lose some of the heat from the heat source to the appliance itself through conduction and to the environment through convection. It's usually a very small amount. But, at any rate, that lost heat isn’t really usable. To take those losses into account, we'll need a slightly different measure.

When those losses are taken into account, the resulting percentage is called the thermal efficiency. This measure attempts to account for whatever heat is left over after combustion inefficiencies and appliance heat loss and is available to be applied to the target area. Of course, if the appliance cabinet's hot temperature also contributes to heating our desired area, it's not exactly "wasted heat." A unit's thermal efficiency, for this reason, may be very close to the heating element’s combustion efficiency. It doesn't make much sense to talk about the “combustion efficiency” of an electrical resistance heating element. In that setup, though, the first law of thermodynamics assures us it's safe to assume all the electric energy supplied to the heating element ends up as heat. This is where you may have heard that heating appliances with electrical resistance heating elements have (near) 100% thermal efficiency.

Pattern Efficiency

Considering how much of the heat makes it where it is desired is a little trickier. With a convection heater, there will be some useful heat loss through the ducting, and a lot of the warmest air that is eventually supposed to heat us ends up at the top of the room. Figuring out an efficiency requires some advanced computer modeling.

The situation is similar for infrared heaters. We'll need to consider their view factors. Radiant power decreases with distance. The amount of energy a heater puts out is steady. But we'll experience less of it per square foot as we get further from the source and its beam widens. It's also worth considering that even if we aren't directly inside the beam, our surroundings will also be warmed in proportion to their absorptivity.

You can see how quickly this gets complex. However, many manufacturers are good about providing a diagram of a heater's view factor so you can position it or figure out how many you'll need to cover a space. Don't be surprised, though, if you come across an “efficiency number” for this. In fact, this is sometimes reduced to “watt density.”

Radiant Efficiency

At this point, it makes sense to ask how much of the heat from an infrared heater is distributed as infrared. Remember that there's still some convection going on - any air that happens by that hot heat source will get warmed up, decreasing the amount of energy left to send out as infrared. Some heaters intentionally exploit this for room heating benefits, while others try to minimize or eliminate it.

The ANSI and AHRI developed Standard 1330 in 2015. It rates a heater based on how much of its heat is delivered by radiant energy. You may see one of two ratings: Infrared factor (IF) and radiant emission value (REV). IF is the older rating system, which was replaced because the testing equipment manufactured for measuring it turned out to be inconsistent. In some cases, there were differences of 10% between repeated test results for the same heater. REV is the newer method adopted in 2018 and is more accurate. You may see either one in practice.

Both ratings are based on similar testing procedures and calculations however. A heater is placed in front of a radiometer, which is a sophisticated machine to measure radiant output. From the test results and quite a bit of calculation, a ratio of radiant energy that made it to the radiometer to the total energy input can be determined. New testing equipment was manufactured to ensure consistent results with the REV method.

IR Factors can range from 7 to 15, and REV's from 80 to 120. Both systems indicate a range of roughly 30% to 70% radiant heat transfer (as measured by gross radiant coefficient), implying that the rest is transferred by conduction and convection. It's important to note that Standard 1330 testing is not mandatory; it's only voluntary. So, not every appliance will have this rating. In addition, 1330 is only applicable to gas-fired heaters whose energy can be radiated into a single measuring plane. So, this won't help make comparisons between gas and electricity-powered units. Last, a higher REV doesn't always mean a "better" heater. This is because REV just tells us what percentage of the heat that ended up in the target got there by radiation. So, be sure to consider these aspects when you see manufacturers use this "efficiency."

Different Styles

Infrared heaters come in a myriad of shapes, sizes, and styles. In fact, the types can look so different from one another that it's possible to have two side by side without knowing that both were infrared heaters. In this section, we'll see how to recognize the various styles and peak at where they're used and what each is best for.

The most straightforward way to divide up heaters is by their emitters. It's usually the most recognizable or prominent feature of a heater. To an extent, they even determine the shape of the main appliance cabinet.

Quartz Tube Heaters

All quartz tube heaters run on electricity, which heats the resistance filaments running through their emitters. You may see these long rectangular heaters referred to as "lamp" style heaters. That's apt because many of them look more or less like chubby fluorescent light fixtures with glowing orange heating elements. The reflector typically lines the inner surface of the main housing behind the emitter. In front of it, there's usually a wire cage to prevent inadvertent touching.

Different models of quartz tube heaters strive for different balances of IR-A and IR-B for projection from a distance or colder outdoor use and IR-C for absorptivity. Their electric filaments reach their target temperatures in just seconds and are easily adapted into outdoor models, which feature weather-resistant stainless steel or powder-coated housings.

Outdoor Overhead Quartz Tube Heaters

Many heaters mounted in ceilings, coves, or outdoor zones are quartz tube or lamp-style heaters. Terraces, large pergolas, and outdoor dining or entertaining areas all benefit because they occupy no floor space. The higher-intensity models can even be positioned further away from target areas. Since they can be placed about anywhere electricity can be supplied, including being aimed diagonally, you'll see models made for garages and even boats.

Quartz tube heaters have some of the highest operating temperatures of infrared heaters. So, the hottest high-intensity models may require higher mounting and larger clearances. It's also worth checking the approved uses of models of this style. Some commercial and industrial use units are not approved for residential use.

Outdoor Floor Stand Quartz Tube Heaters

Because the lamp style is so versatile, some manufacturers make versions of it for settings where mounting overhead is not an option, too. These models share many qualities with their ceiling mounted kin. But since they're positioned closer to their targets, you won't find high-intensity lamps. This makes them better suited to outdoor "areas" than to larger zones. Of course, they must be placed in cord length to an electrical supply and will take up floor space.

On the other hand, many are portable, so they can be deployed and stored as needed. Even the more permanent ones are mounted atop a pole, which minimizes their floor footprint.

Indoor Overhead Quartz Tube Heaters

Quartz tube lamps can even be adapted for indoor use. While they look and work much like the outdoor models, the residential versions you're likely to only see are for garages. They're more commonly used to heat individual work areas, like workbenches, entryways, and exits in industrial buildings. You may have seen these heating stadiums and sports arenas. They're also popular for heating large open buildings with high ceilings, like warehouses, aviation hangars, and fire stations. Some are even specifically designed for saunas, which is where you may have heard the term "IR cabin." As with the outdoor models, you'll want to check whether the approved use is commercial, industrial, or residential.

Residential Indoor Space Heaters

Quartz tubes also find use in most designs for infrared personal space heaters. Even though all have the signature orange glow, their shapes and sizes are only limited by manufacturers' imaginations. You'll see them in cabinet styles, tower styles, and even "circulating fan" styles. The heating element and emitter are hot, though not as hot as those for outdoors or long distances. So, they do have a safety cage on the front. Despite that, these appliance's cabinets typically aren't hot to the touch.

A blower fan is a common feature among residential space heaters, serving two purposes. While this type of heater still exploits infrared, its radiant output is less than other styles. Since a larger portion of their heating power is convective, the blower helps distribute the warm air. In addition, the blowing action helps to disperse heat from the cabinet. You may see this kind of heater advertised as "dual radiant and convective" or something similar.

These inexpensive heaters are popular for heating bedrooms and living spaces in homes. They're typically portable; even the larger ones may have wheels. And it's easy for manufacturers to pack extra features into the cabinet models. For instance, music speakers are a frequent bonus. As great as they are, though, it may be hard to take full advantage of infrared's benefits with them. When they sit on the floor, it can be tricky to get a view factor to adequately cover a target area.

Metal or Ceramic Plaque Heaters

Plaque heaters are always gas-fired and come in 4 basic styles. They are almost always recognizable by a glowing orange "plate" that you can tell has little holes all over it when you look closely. That said, metal plaques won't always glow. But if the heater you're considering runs on gas and has a perforated emitter, there’s a good chance it's one of these.

Overhead Plaque Heaters

If you've heard the term "box heater," this is the kind of appliance it refers to. Its arrangement of rectangular glowing orange plaques bordered by a large protruding reflector makes it look like an open shoe box. Since these are hung from a height, their emitters will try to balance IR-A for distance and IR-B for absorptivity. Their plaques are almost always ceramic.

Although they may need both gas and electricity supplied from overhead, these are a popular choice in large garages and open bay buildings. They can be aimed diagonally and may even be aimed within a range of angles.

Because they operate at such high temperatures, some models may not be used in residences. It’s a good idea to check a model's manual for where it can and can’t be used. Indoor swimming pools might be off-limits.

Mushroom Top and Cylinder Heaters

These might be the most familiar style of outdoor patio heater. Mushroom tops look a bit like floor lamps. But where there would be a light bulb at the top of a lamp, infrared heaters have a cylindrical metal plaque emitter. The mushroom's "cap" is actually a reflector to direct infrared down to people and to help trap a bubble of warm air. The emitter on some models runs the majority of their height, essentially replacing the stem. Found in both portable and fixed models, they give potential users the option for either gas plumbing or propane tanks. Recently, some manufacturers have even shrunk this design down to tabletop size for home use.

A newer design even looks like a skinny pyramid with a clear glass tube at its center. Flame runs up the tube to the plaque emitter. But, in the process, the heated glass tube also acts as an emitter while adding a stunning display. The reflectors at the tops of these are usually small and rectangular.

One drawback to this heater style, however, is its limited range. Their emitters are smaller in comparison to those of other outdoor heater styles. On top of that, the emitters on floor stand models are above head height and aimed outward. Infrared must be reflected back down to the target rather than initially directed at it.

Tank Top Heaters

A tank top heater looks just like a box heater, except that the box attaches directly to the top of a propane tank. This makes it easy to move from place to place. It’s easy to see why this heater style is a favorite for construction sites and other outdoor work areas. The view factors and watt densities of their glowing ceramic plaques tend to perfectly match the task.

Wall Heaters

As their name implies, these heaters are mounted between the floor and head height on a wall. They’re a common alternative to blue flame heaters. Some even have an available fan option. In front of the glowing ceramic plates is a metal cage to prevent users from touching one by mistake. The more furniture impedes their view factors, the less infrared benefit makes it into a room. But, they are so convenient to install and have such short response time that they are a staple for zone heat in many parts of the country.

Metal Tube Heaters

“Tube brooders,” as they’re called, are always low-intensity heaters. They emit longer wave infrared, which is known to be the best for comfort heating. These are always mounted overhead. Just like a box heater, a metal tube heater has a reflector around its edge. Unlike a box heater, though, it doesn't glow. In their long history, they’ve picked up as many nicknames as there are places people have found to use them. Some of the others you may have heard are “push tube heater” and “stick heater.” It's worth considering that their overhead position does require gas and electricity to be available from above. And, while not a concern for most units, the temperature can decrease quite a bit down the length of the longest tubes. A low-intensity output heater will also have the most trouble overcoming high winds or outdoor cold.

But because they produce gentle comfortable heat, metal tube heaters see lots of use in the seating areas of retail centers and restaurants. For their insides, warehouses or plants may have them custom-designed to canvass an entire building. Or they may use standard models to only provide heat in zones where people work. Either way saves valuable floor space. This style is so trusted for industrial open bay-like areas that they've become popular for home garages, too.

Flat Panel Heaters

Of all the styles of indoor heaters, flat panel heaters may be the “coolest.” They not only operate at the lowest temperatures, but they are also the most stylish. Thin and rectangular, they can be hung on walls or suspended from ceilings. There are some that fit into ceiling coves. They can have bars fashioned onto them when they're built as bathroom towel warmers. Some are disguised as functioning mirrors! A handful of companies even offer custom prints on the fronts so they can double as wall art.

These are favorites of infrared specialists heating living and office workspaces. With slim profiles, they run on electricity, and their response time is quick. So, they're easy to work into building-wide zone heating. While most panel heaters are low-intensity, there are some medium-intensity models, too. They may be preferred in high-ceiling rooms used as recreational spaces. Hot yoga studios, for instance, are growing advocates.

Shipping

For most uses, infrared heaters are sized for parcel delivery. They’re light enough to be delivered to your front door and don’t usually require a signature.

As with any appliance, however, take into account the fact that yours has been on several loading docks and many freight trucks before getting to you. Be sure to consult your installation manual thoroughly. There will be checks and adjustments to go through to make sure your appliance works the way it should. Even though it’s only necessary in a few cases, be prepared for some cleaning in tight spaces or tweaking rather than a completely plug-and-play experience. This is especially true for gas-fired appliances and is why most manuals insist that knowledgeable professionals perform installation and service. There may be a little more to do than just making the utility connection.

Installation Concerns

View Factor

You'll recall each unit is a unique combination of energy input, heating element, emitter material, and reflector design. This leads to different view factors and watt densities in the desired wavelengths. This also means there is no one-size-fits-all positioning or appliance sizing for all heaters or heater types.

But you can think about "aiming" an infrared heater the same way you would a flashlight or a light fixture. If you put a radiant heater low to the ground in a spot where its "light" is blocked by furniture, you won't get its full benefit. Anywhere there's no "light" will stay cold until heated by the convection or conduction from the rest of the room. This is why many models are designed to be placed at height and "shine" heat down on target areas for the broadest coverage, just like traditional lights.

In every case, it's best to consult the model-specific documentation. Remember that considering watt density alone may not be enough. 20,000 watts of high-intensity infrared must be positioned differently than 20,000 low-intensity watts.

Single appliance installations in residential settings are ones most homeowners should feel comfortable tackling themselves. However, the situation is different if we consider a multiple appliance installation as part of a well-designed zone heating plan. In this situation, you should use the manufacturer's in-house design service whenever possible. If you can find one, you'll also benefit from consulting with an installer who has previously worked with the brands or models you plan to install.

Fuel Access and Cost

It's tempting to let yourself get swept up in claims about energy savings. But the hard truth is that both the cost and availability of fuel gas and electricity vary by region. So, if you're planning on doing a cost comparison, be sure to check with your utility provider and check your desired product's installation manual for consumption information.

Routing fuel gas or the right electricity voltage to a planned appliance location may also be restricted by a building's layout. Consult with your gas plumber, electrician, or general contractor to make sure you don’t run into any surprises.

Ventilation, Clearances, and Avoiding Burns

No matter what type of infrared heater you’re considering, your choice of its final location will also need to consider ventilation, clearances, and avoiding burns.

If you’re considering an indoor gas-burning appliance, you must plan for adequate ventilation. The goal is to ensure enough oxygen to maintain combustion without depriving humans of what they need for respiration. Ventilation also provides dilution and evacuation of combustion by-products.

Gas heaters classified as "unvented" don’t require any special vent pipes to carry fresh air to the appliance or to carry exhaust to the outside. When operated properly, they only produce the same "exhaust" gasses humans do. Still, they require proper ventilation, and indoor units should not be installed in what are called "confined" spaces. Residential appliances need a minimum fresh air opening of one square inch for every 1000 BTU/hr of burner capacity for proper ventilation. Unvented appliances also don't operate well above 4000-4500 feet because the air already has less oxygen.

Manufacturer-specified clearances to combustibles in each direction also affect a heater's placement. Failing to follow these specifications puts you at risk of starting a fire. Manufacturers will also spell out how to position their models so as to minimize the risk of burns. Even though many have safety features to prevent directly touching an open flame or high-temperature emitter, leaning against a hot housing or emitter panel could prove to be painful.

Some requirements may be a little different from model to model, so always be sure to check the documentation. Your installation planner or installer is a good resource to double-check with, too.

Maintenance

One thing to love about infrared heaters is there aren't many parts to wear out. In fact, electric heaters without fans may only require occasional bulb changes and dusting.

As relatively straightforward as they are, keep a few things in mind when tending to an electric infrared heater. First, you’ll always want to ensure the appliance has been turned off, disconnected from its power source, and cooled to room temperature before performing any maintenance. And second, never handle quartz tubes or bulbs with your bare hands. The oil from your skin can cause hot spots on the tube, which may cause shattering when the appliance is turned back on and heated up.

Gas-fired heaters require a bit more attention than their electric counterparts. Valve trains should be checked at least once annually. It's a good idea to have a certified professional gas appliance technician do the heavy lifting. In this respect, they're just like any other gas-fired appliance. Gas supply hoses will need to be checked for wear. You'll want to compare the flame pattern on ceramic and metal plaque burners to the pattern in the installation manual to ensure it's right. There shouldn’t be any blue areas. Burners of any type should be cleaned with compressed air, particularly in their air intakes or shutters. Injectors, housings, and control compartments also benefit from being cleared of dust.

Summary

A well-built gas-fired infrared heater can reasonably last 15-25 years. Radiant panels, which are essentially a solid-state design, can even last 40 years. The only heater type with parts needing regular replacement is quartz tube heaters. While some have longer life spans, 5000 hours is a good average tube life. For comparison, there are 8740 hours in a year.